Sunday, March 24, 2013

One day at the sugar shack that I won't forget

OMMUNITY EDITORIAL BOARD

One day at the sugar shack that I won't forget

By Jen Valberg
Jen Valberg checks a work in progress at the family's backyard sugar shack.
I have this stark memory of being six years old, sitting on the school bus, ready to go home. Something catches my eye through the window on my right. I look out and see my mom. What?! Why on earth would my mom be here at school when I am taking the bus home?
As the bus driver turns on the engine, my mom starts miming frantically. First front crawl, then breaststroke. She looks like a fish out of water (literally), and then it hits me. Swimming lessons! I am not supposed to take the bus on Wednesdays, because my mom picks me up and takes me to swimming lessons. My face hot with embarrassment, I spring into action and hop off the bus, just before it pulls away.
I learned a valuable lesson that day: I am forgetful. There is no getting around it – over the course of my life I have proven time and again that no matter how often I am reminded, if it is out of my normal routine, I will forget. I’m sure that my mom told me three times that morning. “Don’t take the bus home after school: you have swimming lessons.”
Had she written it on my forehead, or on the side of the bus, sure, I would have clued in. Instead, I hopped on the bus to go home, just like every other school day. Completely oblivious.
Through the years, I have developed coping mechanisms to hide this affliction. I leave notes in my shoes, put objects in front of the door and write myself emails. These things work, to a moderate degree. Unfortunately, the mechanism that sticks the best – the one thing that is absolutely foolproof - is making a mistake. As my mom will attest, I never forgot a swimming lesson from that awkward-charades-on-the-side-of-the-road day forward.
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Aside from the Canadian curling championships, there is only one thing on my mind at the end of February and for most of March: Maple syrup.
The backyard sugar shack that I run with my Dad started as a one-tree show five years ago. The end result of our first year of production – a runny, maple-tasting liquid – was not a selling point for continuation. Nor was the process: cooking down 40 litres of sap over the stove turned the house into a sauna. It may have been good for our skin, but the cupboards and walls were not happy.
Making maple syrup is, in theory, quite a basic thing. Gather sap from maple trees as it runs from root to branch for about three weeks in late winter. Boil it for a really long time until you’re left with sweet, thick syrup. Put it in a jar and enjoy all year long.
Our foray into maple syrup production was motivated by this very perception of ease. There are 25 mature trees on my Dad’s property, and the local hardware store sold all of the equipment we needed. Why not?
Over the years we have gradually expanded production, with 24 trees now on the go. In a good year, this will yield 960 litres of sap, which will cook down to 24 litres of syrup. We got primitive, building a fire pit in the yard to boil the sap outside. This not only saves on fuel costs and eliminates in-house condensation, but leaves a lovely roasted marshmallow scent on anyone who stops by to help.
We have mastered the art of when to tap (this involves watching the thermometer) and bought a refractometer, enabling precise measurement of the sugar content, which means thick, crawl-out-of-the-jar syrup. As lessons are learned, new systems are put in place and each year we pat ourselves on the back, saying, “We finally got it right.” At the end of each season, we sit back and marvel at the bottles of sweet goodness that we worked hard to produce, using little more than elbow grease, firewood and the trees out back. It’s a magical feeling.
And then there was the crash of 2010.
Left alone at the sugar shack one weekend, I was in charge of the entire operation. To be clear, the act of solo maple syrup production is not easy; it requires memory and multi-tasking. The fire has to be stoked, firewood split, buckets of sap checked and emptied frequently on a warm day. Most importantly, though, the sap, whose sugar content rises as the water evaporates, has to be monitored and topped up.
This is precisely where the making of syrup became a challenge for me. The multitude of distractions and tasks preyed on my weakness, enticing me to forget.
I knew that things had gone sour when I smelled sweet, burnt candy. I don’t remember what I had been doing, but I was away from the fire long enough for disaster to strike. The sap had gotten very concentrated over the heat of the fire, and gone past the stage of syrup, foaming over the sides and becoming a massive candied explosion. By the time I reached the fire pit, there was nothing I could do. It was a mess.
I lost three litres of maple syrup that day, which represented 25% of our total harvest that year. I ruined a cooking pan, learning that scrubbing burnt sugar off of stainless steel is virtually impossible. Though I am familiar with the sting of having forgotten something important, I suffered second-degree burns to my pride.
But you know what? There is a bright side to my forgetful maple syrup mishap: it won’t happen again.
Born and raised in Kingston, Jen Valberg is co-owner of Fat Chance Farmstead. When she's not in the garden, you can find her in the kitchen, behind the sewing machine or making noise on the piano.

Friday, March 22, 2013

My first article in the Kingston Whig Standard - Introducing the Farm

COMMUNITY EDITORIAL BOARD

So I quit my day job ...

By Jen Valberg
Jen Valberg of Fat Chance Farmstead: 'I was a city girl, and there was a fat chance that I would ever end up in the dirty, low-profit vocation of agriculture.'
Jen Valberg of Fat Chance Farmstead: 'I was a city girl, and there was a fat chance that I would ever end up in the dirty, low-profit vocation of agriculture.'
It took months of deliberation to name our farm. It was not an easy process, trying to find a name that was both catchy and unique and somehow representative of us: two young people, flying by the seat of our pants, starting a small-scale farm.
My partner, Josh, and I spent many late nights brainstorming. Rather than join a shortlist, one idea after another found itself on the cutting room floor: Food Farm, Full Belly Farm, You Scream Farm! … the list went on. If you’re thinking of starting a farm, call me. I could give you 1,000 names to chew on.
In one fit of desperation, we started cycling through colours with nouns. We settled on “Red Bucket.” For three nights, our farm was to be called Red Bucket Farm. We had hit rock bottom.
Then one day we tried a new approach. If our farm were one of those hip new wineries, what would it be called? That’s when we found it. “Fat Chance Farmstead.” It was fitting, given our trials in getting our farm off the ground, and sarcastic enough for two people who would resort to literary Russian roulette to name their business.
When I think back to the person I was in high school (there was a line under my graduating photo in the yearbook that read something like “Most likely to be a rich businesswoman”), the name of our farm gains even more meaning. I was a city girl, and there was a fat chance that I would ever end up in the dirty, low-profit vocation of agriculture.
My mom kept a vegetable garden throughout my childhood, and she often had to resort to bribery to get any involvement from me. “Will you go pick some carrots from the garden for dinner?” was usually met with a groan. It was with a large chip on my shoulder that every spring I would help to shovel our stinky compost onto the garden.
The first time I really had my hands in the dirt was as at the age of 12, when I struck out on my own and planted a strawberry patch and grapevine in my backyard. I was the sole, proud gardener, and I would eat every last strawberry that the rabbits left for me.
But any gift that I thought I had fizzled the day that I ate my first bunch of home-grown grapes. After waiting two years for fruit, my face seized up at the sour, bitter flavor. I learned the unfortunate difference between grapes that are meant for wine, and grapes that are meant for eating. I lost interest shortly thereafter.
Over a decade later, I participated in a cycling tour from Winnipeg to Sudbury. One stop on the trip was at an organic vegetable farm, and in exchange for a place to pitch our tents, we were thrust into the field to help with “harvest day.” Faced with another opportunity to “connect” with the land, I spent more time posing for photos with a bunch of kale in my hand than actually doing anything productive.
Later in the trip, while visiting another farm, I had the chance to milk a cow. Thirty seconds in, the cow peed on my hands and the bucket of what little milk had come out had to be thrown away. The cow was sending me a message: don’t quit your day job.
And yet there was something that drew me in. I can’t say whether it was a desire to be outside, the possibility of meeting a cute farmer boy or just bragging rights: “I grew that, you know!” I planted my own backyard garden, and things just snowballed from there.
I knew that my life had taken a real turn when two weddings in a row – both as a bridesmaid – I was instructed by the bride to wash my hands thoroughly for the big day. Dirt under my nails had replaced high heels; where I once shed tears over a missed opportunity to visit a Gap Outlet store, I blogged with pride about my once-grey, now-brown farm pants from J. Crew.
Over the past five years, a hobby has developed into a passion. A city girl has found true love in agriculture (and a farmer boy, to boot), against the odds. And after a year of planning for a weekly food box, dreaming about organic berry production, and saving the start-up funds, a farm is born: Fat Chance.
I could go on, but I have to go feed the chickens.
Jen Valberg is a member of the Whig-Standard's community editorial board. Born and raised in Kingston, Jen is co-owner of Fat Chance Farmstead. When she's not in the garden, you can find her in the kitchen, behind the sewing machine or making noise on the piano.